No_Name_Home

This Pub's one to get lost for. by Carol Godsmark Friday Aug 31st 2007

I've been getting myself hopelessly lost on your behalf, dear reader. I've travelled high-hedged, narrow lanes in search of the pub with no name – marked by a sign which has, er, no name.

The White Horse is its proper title and it is the highest – and most elusive – pub in Hampshire. It is reportedly near Petersfield but to me felt like it was in deepest Devon.
It seems they don't want you to find it, as directions on their website give little away except for a circle in the middle of nowhere close to the Warren.
Indeed it was a warren I found myself in - up hill, down dale, with unseasonal driving rain and flooding adding to the fun
But I did chance upon that sign after an hour's attempt, and when I got there the three-roomed pub was heaving with bonhomie and ruddy faces.
The dark interior with its bric-a-brac artefacts of farming of yore is one of the most atmospheric around, a throwback to the pre-industrial revolution period. The entrance area has an old fireplace, seating and a few tables. The high, raised bar guides you on to a further area, reached only by going out and in another door. It's a truly Alice in Wonderland moment.

If you don't fancy that, you can choose the spacious dining room off the first part of the pub. I chose to go there, and a small table in a dark recess was a good hiding place.
The menu contains seared scallops; crispy duck (shot locally); stilton, feta and pepper salad and fishcakes. Some starters also double up as mains with dual pricing. Or you could go for the home-cooked honey-glazed ham with free-range eggs and chips (£9.95) or Scottish fillet with chips (£17.95, and the most expensive dish on the board). Spicy oriental stir-fried vegetables and Italian stuffed aubergine are some of the veggie options. They also do baguettes at lunchtime.
There's Today's Specials to consider too. On my visit they consisted of grilled salmon with sweet chilli jam, fillet of beef and wild mushroom Stroganoff or steak and ale pie (£10.95). The pie was my choice.
The sheer size of the pie could leave you immobile – you couldn't possibly move after scooping up all of the luscious, tender beef, onion, mash and good, proper crusty pastry. It was surrounded by a cracking ale gravy and was the biz – just the kind of food you hope to find in a pub but rarely do.

The When Sally Met Harry moment came when a newcomer spotted my dish and said to the Czech bar staff member (there are four excellent women staff): 'I'll have what she's having.' Glowing, satisfied faces all round, including on those who ordered a pint of prawns with chips. Where else could you do that but in Britain?
They trust you here, as a tab is set up without question. My lemon tart with homemade tulip honey and strawberry sauce notched up at £5.25, while other puds include chocolate and walnut torte, fresh fruit platter with crème fraîche or locally-made ice creams and sorbets. English cheeses cover the ground with Shropshire Blue, Tremains organic Sussex cheddar and Somerset Brie. My choice turned out to be more of a cheesecake than a lemon tart, and lacked a distinct lemony flavour but it was well-made.
Would I recommend the high road to the Pub with No Name? Unreservedly. But just prime your GPS (the postcode is GU32 1DA), or do as I did and enjoy getting lost in lush hinterland.

ESSENTIALS
The White Horse Inn, Priors Dean, near Petersfield, Hampshire. 01420 588387.
Open: 12.30pm-3pm and 6.30pm-9.30pm Mon-Wed, plus Thu, Fri and weekends open from midday-11pm.
Food: ****
Service: ****
Atmosphere: *****
Disabled access: A tad tricky due to step and narrow entrances for wheelchairs, but definitely possible.
Smoking: There's a lovely garden if you must smoke.
How to get there: Visit the website for directions (www.stuartinns.com) or call the pub for more instructions.

DINERS VIEW
Rosemary & Nick from Alsford, 'we had heard of this pub and couldn't wait to try it, although tricky to find.' Rosemary said. 'It was incredibly worth it, a real discovery. My duck salad was totally delicious as was my chocolate tart.' 'The range of beers struck me,' Nick added. 'My No Name Strong excellent, as was the steak and ale pie'.